Live Edge River Table | Woodworker's Journal

Live Edge River Table

Step 1: Apply Penetrating Epoxy Sealer

Using MAS Penetrating Epoxy sealer, mix correctly at a 2:1 (two parts resin:one

part hardener) into a cup and stir for 2-3 minutes. Pour mixed epoxy onto the

wood and coat all sides of the wood slab using a paint brush or by rubbing it

into the wood by hand with rubber gloves on. This step will create a barrier

that eliminates any bubbles or foaming when epoxy comes in to contact with

the wood. Once all sides are coated with epoxy, prop them up on plastic cups

so the epoxied slab does not bond to your workspace. Any type of plastic or

silicone surface will work for this. Let epoxy cure overnight.

Step 2: Sand Wood Slab

Once Penetrating Epoxy has cured, using your random orbital sander, sand

down all edges with 80-180 grit paper and hand sand the live edge. Main

focus of this should be making sure the top, side and bottom are ﬂat and

the live edge is lightly scued. Make sure all sanding debris is removed from

wood slab prior to placing in to your mold.

Step 3: Place Wood Slab into mold

For this river table, we wanted to add color but not too much that it hides the

beauty of the live edge slab and the unique character it has. Using Table Top

Pro, we added two colors of pigment powder to get our desired color scheme

which was a blue/grey color. This ﬁrst layer of epoxy with pigment will also

secure the slabs in place once it starts to cure so we did not need to clamp,

screw or silicone the slab to the mold.

Step 4: Mix and Pour Table Top Pro with Pigment

Measure Table Top Pro using the correct 1:1 mix ratio and add approximately 1 tsp of color per cup, mix epoxy resin for 5

minutes. DO NOT pour over 1/4” of epoxy on this step. Keep in mind, if you are mixing with a drill attachment the faster the

mixer spins the more air bubbles you will whip into the mix. Use a controlled speed when mixing. Once epoxy is mixed, let

it sit in the cup for 5-10 minutes to allow air bubbles to rise to the surface.

Pour epoxy into the channel of the mold and wait 10-15 minutes. Using a propane torch, apply heat 6 inches above the

surface in a slow waving motion to release air bubbles. After you torch you can start to create your own pattern using a

mixing stick to swirl the epoxy. This is the fun part and you can create a interesting pattern for you base layer. Repeat this

process for the ﬁrst 30 minutes until the epoxy starts to gel. Once the epoxy has a syrup like consistency, swirl and apply

heat one ﬁnal time and cover your piece to keep o any dust from settling.

Building a live edge river table is a very creative and unique DIY project that merges woodworking and epoxy. This table was

made out of a kiln dried slab of pine along with three dierent epoxy systems available at Rockler. Penetrating Epoxy to seal

the wood, Table Top Pro for a base layer of color (optional), Deep Pour epoxy for the river channel and ﬁnished with Table Top

Pro as the ﬁnal clear coat. See the steps below for more detailed descriptions.

First, you need to make a mold out of melamine or MDF board. The mold needs to be formed to ﬁt the live edge slab of wood.

Once the mold is cut, you will need to apply sheathing tape to the inside of the form which will enable the epoxy to release.

Insert screws on all edges to the base and apply silicone to all inside edges to ensure the mold will not leak.

Step 5: Mix Deep Pour Epoxy and Apply

Once the base layer of Table Top Epoxy has set for approximately 12 hrs, you are ready to apply Deep Pour Epoxy over the

ﬁrst layer. Using our handy Resin Calculator, measure the dimensions of the river channel that needs to be poured and the

calculator will tell you the exact amount of epoxy you will need for this layer. We mixed a full 1.3 gallon kit of Deep Pour epoxy

and poured into the river channel at .5’ thick. Deep Pour epoxy is mass and temperature sensitive.

The mold was 42”long and 20” wide. However, the live edge width between the slabs varied from 6” to 20”. Pouring at .5” in

70F working conditions will let the epoxy cure properly and not overheat which could cause shrinking, yellowing and crack-

ing. After 12 hrs we applied the last .5” of Deep Pour on top of this layer. Since the epoxy was poured in two .5”layers within

12 hrs of each other, the layers bond together providing a 1” thick casting with out any layer lines.

Step 6: Disassemble Mold

Once epoxy has fully cured after 24 hrs you can start to take apart the mold. Using your power drill, remove screws from all

sides of the form. Next, using a mallet or hammer tap the inside edge of the mold to release the edges. Once all sides are

removed you will need to remove the base from the table. Using a chisel or wedge, place the edge in between the epoxy

and mold and tap the handle to separate the table from the bottom. Continue to do this on all sides until the table releases

from the mold.

Step 7: Sand River Table

Now that we have the river table demolded, the next step is to sand all sides of the table. Using a random orbital sander with

80 grit sand paper, sand down the surface and edges of the table. Once you have sanded the surface completely, wipe the

surface down with denatured alcohol and a clean rag. Using an air compressor helps blow o any small dust particles to en-

sure a clean surface. For this table we went a step further and used a hand planer for the sides to remove any tape or silicone

marks. This made the sanding process much easier but if you don’t have access to a hand planer, sanding will work ﬁne it will

just take a little more time. We also routed the top edges to give a beveled look to the table.

Step 8: Clean Surface for Final Top Coat

With a clean rag, wipe surface down with Denatured Alcohol. Be sure to wipe

all sides down for a clean surface. Blowing o the surface one ﬁnal time with

an air compressor can ensure the surface is completely dust free.

Step 9: Apply Final Coat of Table Top Pro

Using our handy Resin Calculator, enter the dimensions of the surface with an 1/8”coating and the calculator will tell you

exactly how much epoxy you will need to mix up. Once you have the amount you need, mix Table Top Epoxy at the correct

1:1 mix ratio.

One tip that helps the mixing step is warming up the Part A Resin bottle for about 5 minutes. You can put the sealed bottle

under hot water and this will help the clarity and reduce the amount of air bubbles while mixing. DO NOT warm up both

Part A and Part B.

Once you have your epoxy measured out, you can begin mixing with a power drill or mixing stick for 5 minutes. Once the

epoxy is fully mixed you can let the epoxy sit for 5 minutes. You’ll notice the air bubbles will rise to the surface during this time.

After the epoxy has sat you can pour on to the surface and spread the epoxy to all the edges with a notched trowel or plastic

spreader. When the epoxy is going over the edge, you can use your ﬁnger with a rubber glove on and rub the epoxy along the

edges. Let the epoxy self level for 10 minutes when it is spread on the top of the surface. Once it is all even you can begin to

apply heat using a propane torch or heat gun to release the air bubbles. Apply heat every 10 minutes for the ﬁrst 30 minutes

after the epoxy has leveled. Continue to rub the edges with your ﬁnger to eliminate drip marks.

Once you have eliminated the surface bubbles you can cover the table with a piece of cardboard or some sort of protective

surface that will protect the piece from any dust settling on the epoxy while it cures. After 12 hrs the epoxy will be cured at 70F.

The surface will be fully cured and ready for use after 7 days. DO NOT rest objects on it or use it until the 7 days has passed.

This could result in rings from cups or scratches on the surface. Apply a base to the table and there you go. You made your

own river table!

Step 10: Let Epoxy Cure

River Table Materials:

Dry and Flattened Wood Slab

1.5 Qt kit of Penetrating Epoxy Sealer

4 Gallon kit of Deep Pour Epoxy

1 Gallon Kit of Table Top Pro Epoxy

Mica Powder or Mixol Ink (Optional)

Mixing Cups, Sticks or Paddle Mixer

Rubber Gloves

Propane Blow Torch

Random Orbital Sander

80-180 grit Sandpaper

Denatured Alcohol

Notched Trowel

Mold Materials:

Melamine or MDF for Mold

1/2” Screws

Clear Silicone (DAP)

Standard 185 ml Caulk Gun

Sheathing Tape

Scissors or Razorblade

Power Drill

Level

Circular Saw

Clamps

Safety Glasses