Proper Setup and Use (cont’d)
Rip cutting process:
• Turn the saw on and await attainment of full rotational speed. Listen for any unusual sounds.
• Locate work piece on table closest to operator, while standing to the left of the workpiece.
Place workpiece firmly against fence and prepare to slowly push it into the blade.
• Slowly push workpiece into blade, again listening for any unusual sounds. Excessive rates of
feed are usually noted by a change in pitch of the blade. If so, slow down the rate of feed.
• Keep the workpiece firmly against the fence as you continue to push it through the blade.
Excess deflection from the face of the fence may cause the workpiece to bind, with serious
potential for kick-back. Remember to stand off to the left from the tail of the workpiece.
• As soon as the back end of the workpiece is nearing the tabletop, take the push sticks and use
them, rather than your hands, to continue to feed the workpiece into the blade. Always use
pushsticks when pushing the workpiece all the way through and past the blade.
• Cut-offs should either be dropping to the floor behind the tablesaw or captured on either
another outfeed table or on an outfeed roller support.
• Allow the blade to come to a complete stop before making any adjustments to the tablesaw set
up or to move cut-off pieces away from the blade.
Miter guide use:
• Miter guides are used for cross-cuts and angle cuts in relatively short workpieces. Long pieces
generally require a sled or other special jigs. In many instances, the blade guard, splitter, and
pawl mechanism(s) may need to be removed temporarily.
• Move the fence off to the right, beyond the length of the workpiece to prevent binding.
• Insert the miter guide into the slot. Check angle and be sure it is locked in position.
• Place workpiece onto miter guide. Most workpieces can be safely haled manually, but short or
long pieces, or wide ones, generally must be clamped onto the miter guide. Consult instructor
or supervisor.
• With the motor still OFF, move the miter guide to the blade and ensure accurate positioning for
the intended cut.
• Pull the miter guide back well in front of the blade.
• Turn on blade and proceed. Use a push stick to move or remove cutoffs.
Dado blade use:
• With the saw turned off and the power cord disconnected, replace the regular cutting blade
with a dado head. As these vary from a single fixed width specialty blade to stacking blades
with chip removers, consult instructor or supervisor in advance.
• With dado head installed, raise to needed height.
• Use fence for longitudinal grooves, miter guide or cross-cut sled for perpendicular ones. In both
cases, the riving knife and pawls will generally need to be removed, and the blade guard as well
if it is affixed to the blade assembly or table.
• Perform practice cut(s) to ensure proper cutting depth.
• Even though dado cuts are not meant to completely cut through a workpiece, it is still essential
that pushsticks be used to guide the workpiece through and beyond the blade.
Cross-cut sled use:
• Cross-cut sleds vary in style and type. In general, they use two of the miter guide grooves on
the table top.
• Cross-cut sled work almost always requires removal of the blade guard, riving knife, and pawls.
• Fixture and clamp the workpiece in the sled, following guidance from the instructor or
supervisor.
• With power off, move the sled to the blade to verify position, and then lock down the
workpiece.
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